While I’m not a huge golfing fan, getting to spend time with famous chefs like the famed Patricia Quintana, Andrew Ormsby and Four Seasons’ own Philippe Piel and Jose Salas Duarte was a real treat.
Punta Mita lies just 28 miles north of Puerto Vallarta Airport– and it’s down as the crown jewel of Mexico’s Riviera Nayarit. A couple nights here and you’ll see why.
Everyday you can choose to hang by the beach, or by the adult pool– as we did often pictured here. That is, if you don’t get engaged in dozens of activities from tennis to snorkeling to scuba diving right off the beach.
Despite such a large resort, it always seemed to feel empty. There was always space, it was rarely loud or crowded. That meant service was always perfect and timely.
A highlight of the trip was of course the fresh seafood in all the dishes the chefs prepared. Everyday you could order something on the menu as ‘catch of the day’, and actually walk down to the beach at 11am and see what the catch was! Lots of fresh tuna, red snapper, and much more.
Right there on the beach you reserve a piece for lunch or dinner– grilled, in fish tacos, or any other way you like it. So incredible.
Great shot of a party being setup on the beach!
Plantain chip, caramelized over flour less chocolate cake.
Look at that fish! The kids loved it.
It doesn’t get any fresher than this. Tuna, right out of the ocean a few minutes ago.
As the sun set, it was time for the grand opening of the Golf and Gourmet Classic!
Fireworks, and tastings from all the chefs involved. Highly recommend making a trip down there– and I can’t wait to see what they pull off for the event again next year!
The COMO Hotels and Resorts are quickly becoming one of my favorite hospitality groups around the world. After several great stays at The Halkin in London, I knew it was time to see how the resorts side of their business looked with a visit to the famed Cocoa Island in the Maldives.
The island (known locally as Makunufushi) is tucked around the southern part of Malé’s coral atolls– a quick 40-minute speedboat transfer from Malé’s international airport. On our visit to the island we had some inclement weather which made the transfer rather exciting!
It’s hard not to get excited by the photographs of the island. When you arrive it’s as if you’re showing up to your own private island in paradise. There are only 33 suites and villas sprinkled and spidered across the water giving you total privacy– nearly all of them are fashioned to look like Dhoni’s (Maldives style fishing boats).
The water underneath these villas at times was less than a foot deep. It was a great place to see rays and my favorite little reef sharks. They looked almost animatronic the way they swam around the shallow waters. I kept wondering if one of them had frickin’ laser beams attached to their heads.
The design inside the villa was simple, chic, and totally comfortable. From the moment we arrived it felt like we were right at home. The resort allows you to have every meal inside the living room of your villa if you wish (looking out over the water), or at a small restaurant on the edge of the island. No request was too much for Cocoa Island–they were baking us gluten free bread daily, and accommodating to everything we could imagine needing on our trip. The quality of the food on the island wins my highest praises. Nothing was short of absolutely delicious.
The beauty and serenity of the beaches were just amazing. Sandbars stretched hundreds of yards in several directions making for great strolls around with occasional dips into the bathtub like ocean, and snorkeling galore.
It was on Cocoa island I received my first Scuba Certification from a fantastic instructor named Takashi. We spent a good 30 minutes one afternoon following a sea turtle around the reefs of the island at only 10 meters. A moment I’ll never forget. I’m truly spoiled now!
Last but not least, the spa can not be missed. Oh yes, the spa. COMO Shambhala knows exactly what they’re doing in this arena. The Ayurvedic style treatments and therapies were absolutely heavenly– as was a visit to their beautiful hydrotherapy pool before a treatment (and for a cool dip after a hot day in the sun).
If you’re considering a trip to The Maldives, I highly recommend putting Cocoa Island on your list. Heavenly. I can’t wait to go back!
Local bike shops (LBS) are the life-line of the cycling world. When you find a good one, you will have both a resource and a community. Unfortunately, in my experience, a visit to the LBS is something I often dread, rather than look forward to. That’s why I am continually impressed every time I hear about Northern Californian bike shop Studio Velo. I’ve come across the name in various cycling blogs, but only recently sat down and took a good look at SV and what sets them apart.
Studio Velo has humble beginnings as a mobile repair shop nearly 10 years ago. Scott Penzarella offered mobile bike repair and fittings to cyclists around the San Francisco Bay Area for a number of years. He drew on his experience in Spain as a premier cycling retailer and injected that European flair into the retail operations once the Mill Valley location opened up. SV is first and foremost a premier cycling shop. It specializes in high-end bikes for demanding clientèle, running the gamut from road to touring bikes. Scott wanted to replicate the European experience where slow and steady and craftsman ship wins the day. SV carries Time and Cyfac, two European companies that hand-make their frames. Similarly, you’ll see Chris King, White Industries, and Paul Components on the shelves; all American companies that represents the best parts and accessories in cycling. On the service side, you’ll often find the employees sipping coffee or even going on lunch rides with customers, rather than rushing them out the door.
The service doesn’t stop once you purchase your frame and gruppo. A good bike is one that fits. Bike fitting has always been more “feel” than science, so I was impressed and surprised to learn that SV employs the Retül fit system to achieve what every cyclist wants – the gray line between performance and comfort. I know first hand how an improper fit can make riding uncomfortable and, frankly, dangerous.
Not content with their incredible brand partnerships and specialized building and fitting services, Studio Velo started offer cycling tours. The SV: Travel arm was formed three years ago and takes clients on adventures all over the world including scenic destinations such as Spain and Italy. Last, but not least, Studio Velo has an entire stand-alone store dedicated to their women clients. called SV: Women. I know many women cyclists and because of their unique physiology, the proper fit on the bike and in cycling attire is often a challenge. SV: Women carries the largest selection of women-specific clothing in the industry and is operated and managed by women. They offer specific clinics for women, catering to their needs.
We all should be supporting our local bike shops but when you have a bad experience, it gives you pause. I have always heard great things about Studio Velo and when I had the chance to interview Scott, I jumped at it. It’s great to see a store that gives the attention and focus that the sport of cycling deserves and to act as a true one-stop-shop for Bay Area cyclists. Next time you are in the area, be sure to check them out.
French military leader Napoleon Bonaparte once said a picture is worth a thousand words. But not even a thousand pictures could give you the feeling of spending time in Jackson Hole, WY at the Four Seasons. The views, the clean air, the incredible hospitality. Pictures will never do it justice– but until they invent virtual reality glasses for blogs, they will have to do. Here we go!
This past New Years I had the absolute pleasure of staying for a few days in this resort-paradise– skiing the hills, taking in the vistas and relaxing around the hotel lounges, pools, and restaurants.
The resort is nestled up against the Jackson Hole Resort mountain, inside the challenging and famed Grand Teton Mountains. The best way to describe skiing or riding Jackson Hole is simple: Not for beginners. It’s exhilaratingly steep, boasting some of the most insane terrain I’ve seen on piste anywhere, let alone heli-skiing in British Columbia.
Pools and hot tubs galore, with great service for hot chocolate or other drinks while you’re relaxing in the hot tub. And my favorite touch was easy– they kept your towel and robe in a heated closet so it was warm when you stepped out. It’s always the simple things that complete the luxury experience.
We spent most of our downtime in the Lobby Lounge seen here playing chess and enjoying Sushi. They actually had a great selection of sashimi, nigiri and some only in Wyoming rolls! A great way to unwind with a glass of wine from the day before you checked in for the night. I will definitely be back. Highly recommended if you’re considering a getaway in summer or winter.
Situated in the wonderful Gion District of Kyoto, Gion Hatanaka is easily one of the best city Ryokan experiences I’ve had in all of Japan.
To begin, Gion is a magical part of Kyoto– the setting of the novel Memoirs of a Geisha. It’s a place to see Geiko’s (the local term for Geisha) walking from appointment to appointment, and explore the winding an beautiful stone streets of Kyoto. It’s walking distance to Yasaka Shrine, Gion Corner and Maruyama park. It’s totally convenient to the city, but inside the Ryokan’s walls you feel secluded and tucked away. Quiet and peaceful.
We stayed in a Kamogawa room– a basic but gorgeous spread. Each room uses ancient Japanese building principles in both the internal and external structure. As most of my trips to Japan have reminded me, things in Japanese hotels and Ryokan’s just seem to work. The layouts are smart, the outlets and switches are all in the right places.
Also, I love the Tatami mat flooring in Japanese Ryokan’s, so I felt right at home. The smell is divine!
There is a bath at the Ryokan (separate for men and women) in the lower level. It’s a traditional ‘koyamaki‘ wooden bath which gives off a wonderful pine aroma. It’s great after a long day of walking around the city and hiking in the mountains. It wasn’t until after staying there that I read this has been rated the best bath in Kyoto. I can see why! The water isn’t mountain onsen hot spring water, but it sure felt great after the long day.
I absolutely adore the clean lines and geometry in this picture. Japanese simplicity in design is very soothing to the mind.
For dinner, prepare to have your mind blown with traditional Kyoto kaiseki (Kyoto is known for this). Incredible Matsutake Mushroom soup, Seafood Nabe, and other traditional Kyoto specialities!
Some of my favorite dishes from the meal are below.
Ikura on white fish has never tasted so good.
Yes those are delicious little fried fish!
Time for a feast. It was course after course just like this.
Everything was looked delicate in presentation and preparation.
Plum wine with flower petals. I can still taste this one, incredible.
Although Kyoto isn’t known for sushi, this was as good as anything I’ve had anywhere else!
A vegetable dish with yuzu citrus on top.
A rabbit mochi (sweet pounded rice) treat.
Although we didn’t experience the maiko evening with our dinner– from the pictures and reviews we read, it is definitely on the list for our next visit!
Rates vary depending on the season. Booking ahead is highly reccomended, and can be secured through our friends at the Ryokan Collection. Thanks to Gion Hatanaka for taking care of us and the incredible visit.
Anyone that knows me knows one of my favorite places in Japan is Hakone, the mountainous hot spring town outside of Tokyo. It’s hard to explain why it’s so special because on paper it just looks like a total tourist trap– but it’s really one of the most magical places I’ve discovered in my many trips around Japan.
Luckily (and one of the reasons I like it), it’s very convenient to get to. It sits only 45 minutes from Tokyo by train or 2 hours by car which makes escaping there for a night or two even more appealing.
My American friends who haven’t been don’t get it though. They say, what’s so good about a volcanic mountain town? Why would you want to go there every time you’re in Japan when there is so much else to see? I just tell them one word: Onsen. To them it just sounds like I’m talking about a “hot tub”, but it’s not just a hot tub. It’s so much more.
Onsen is an ancient tradition, and if you ask me I think the volcanic waters of Hakone carry magical healing powers that have to be felt to be believed.
But a good Onsen isn’t complete without a great Ryokan to stay in. In it’s simplest form, Ryokan’s are Japanese style inns that serve you dinner and breakfast in your room. In Hakone, Ryokan’s are known for their incredible cuisine and of course, wonderful hot springs you can use throughout your stay.
On one of my most recent trips to Japan, I checked out a very special and hidden Ryokan called Yama No Chaya in the mountains of Hakone, right on the rushing Hayakawa river. The name literally translates to “mountain teahouse” and has been a friendly place where people can drop in for tea for more than 50 years.
The property is built into the mountainside on the other side of the river from the road. It’s quiet and secluded from everything. You arrive after crossing a one-way suspension bridge (awesome) and driving up a a steep stone driveway.
We arrived during a huge rain storm, so we couldn’t wait to get inside!
Beautiful bamboo trees growing everywhere, welcoming us to our home away from home.
Getting good photographs of the outside of Yama No Chaya is tricky. The Ryokan (probably by design) almost camouflages into the hillside.
After arriving into the first part of the building here you remove your shoes (and say goodbye to them for the rest of the time you’re inside), and then you enter a land of tatami mats. Socks or barefoot only please!
You’re immediately hit with the distinct and wonderful and unique smell of the tatami and wood structure of the Ryokan.
We were led upstairs to this beautiful lobby like lounge area with a bar that had a great view of the trees and river below. It was here that we met our host, the Okami. She was essentially the ryokan manager and she checked us in and introduced us to our Nakai, who would be our room host serving us meals and taking care of us during our stay for the couple nights we were there.
We were led to our room upstairs– we stayed in what was called a Tsukimidai style room. It was very basic and almost Zen like. It was simply made up of tatami mats and a table in the daytime. At night, the table was pushed aside and buckwheat futons with luxurious down comforters were put in it’s place after dinner.
Tsukimidai literally translates to “moon-viewing deck,” and these specific rooms have all been designed with this in mind. Great big windows and comfortable lounge chairs face outwards towards the sky from the comfort of your room.
Yama No Chaya has 15 rooms in total, and 7 different types to choose from. Some have balconies, some have private open air hot spring baths, while others (like the one we stayed in) had no private bath but a nice view of the mountain, river and sky (and an incredible sunrise reflecting on the trees). They also have one room which has Western style beds if sleeping on futons on the floor isn’t your thing (it’s mine, and we loved it!).
After settling in, we headed to check out the baths before dinner. There were 5 different baths sprinkled throughout the property. 4 of them were open to the outside, which was extraordinarily beautiful. The fresh air comes right at you as you’re sitting in the most amazing setting. Above is the curtains hiding the entry to the female baths. Red is for women, blue is for males!
A beautiful lamp hanging in front of bamboo groves leading to the baths.
The water comes from the Tonosawa hot spring which was discovered in the Nara period (710 to 794) and became known as one of the seven great hot springs of Hakone. The crystal clear boiling water is pumped up to the hotel from 300m below, temperature controlled, and then released into the baths, like the one here.
Part of why I love the Onsen experience so much is you must spend a good amount of time cleaning yourself before you get into the baths. Right outside of this photo is a line of faucets and stools for cleaning yourself.
Onsen’s are deeply peaceful and reflective places, so it’s a good time to check in with your body, clean between your toes, behind your ears, and really scrub yourself free of dirt, grime and even negative feelings.
A shot of a private bath connected to one of the rooms.
The public baths are separated by gender, and then cleaned and switched throughout the day so you get to experience all the different types of atmospheres the baths create.
There are no swim suits allowed, and you don’t bring in any soap, shampoo, or contaminates into the water. So it’s crucial that you get extremely clean and make sure all the soap is off your body before you enter. If you book a room with your own bath, like this one shown here, you can share it with your partner anytime– but you still clean before you get in as if it were public. It’s also possible to book a bath for one hour privately in advance to share the experience with your family or partner.
The indoor bath.
This water is as crystal clear and healing as it gets.
I’m not a scientist, but the volcanic nature of the water in Japan means the water is packed with incredible minerals that heals skin defects, helps aches and pains, and turns your whole body as soft as the day you were born. One minute in a Japanese Onsen and you’ll be hooked, I promise.
After Onsen we headed back to our room as our nakai was getting our room ready for dinner. Dinner is served Kaiseki style in a ryokan, which means a traditional multi-course dinner. It’s a pretty long affair and you’re given tastes of everything you can imagine. One word of advice: Pace yourself. It can go on forever!
Mouth watering Sashimi.
More incredible sashimi. So photogenic!
Every meal in Japan comes with pickles of some type, beautifully prepared.
A salad with tuna and radish and fruit.
Yep, that’s fish head in some type of stew and it was delicious.
I don’t remember the Japanese name for this, but it was a unique potato.
Grilled fish with miso.
Two pots of rice, cooking at our table!
One of my most favorite dishes in Japan is this soup stock made with yuzu citrus and matsutake mushrooms. Incredibly delicate, warming, and a unique taste I’ve never been able to find or replicate anywhere else in the world.
Tuna with fresh wasabi.
This is a creamy chestnut-like concoction. If I could have it everyday, I think I would.
Some pumpkins and a piece of mackerel with horseradish.
Tofu topped with ikura and wasabi.
Lightly fried vegtables with fresh salt.
Fish with baby corn, peppers and Japanese pumpkin.
Rice, ready now!
And finally, a berry-jello like desert that I’ll never forget. A refreshing way to end a long kaiseki style meal!
And here’s what breakfast looks like the next morning. Some pickles, eggs, and other delicacies.
And the best part ever, tuna lightly cooked by pouring hot water on it over a bed of rice. I can’t tell you how delicious this was at eight in the morning!
After dinner drinks at the bar. Beautifully illuminated Sake bottles look great with the lighting.
Incredible facilities, wonderful staff and a truly special dining experience– Yama No Chaya was a treat, I highly recommend visiting if you make it to Japan and want an easy and luxurious side trip out of Tokyo! The staff were careful of our dietary restrictions and allergies (you’ll see, no beef here), and were there with for us whenever we needed them. I’ll be back!
The best way to book Yama No Chaya is through our friends at the Ryokan Collection on their website or directly by email to enquiry@ryokancollection.com
I made a last minute change of plans in Dubai and I’m hopping over to Kuala Lumpur tomorrow for two days, on my way to Jakarta. As always I’m looking to meet entrepreneurs, artists, designers. Helpful tips welcome!
I’m back in the USA for a few days after an incredible time in China and Japan. I’m here for about a week before I head off again to Abu Dhabi, Oman, Japan, and then South Africa and Mozambique. I was trying to find a good way to show the travel I’ve done over the past two months and found this nifty little site called Tripline. You can watch my flights like a movie now.
Is there sustainable design in Shanghai? I didn’t think I’d find any, but I stumbled upon a fantastic place. Nest Shanghai is a ‘design with a conscience’ brand concept.
Nest where the sum is greater than its parts: Nest is a design collective created to provide a fulfilling shopping experience through products with substance.
The shop is full of interesting products with high quality craftsmanship and responsible manufacturing. Clearly someone saw what was happening in China and had to take a stand.
If you’re ever in Shanghai I recommend a visit– it’s a welcome reprieve from the crazy fast fashion consumer culture on the main streets.
I never thought I’d like living in a 16th Century monastery until I visited Florence. In fact, if I had it my way, I would have moved into Hotel Villa San Michele for the whole summer.
I pulled up in our rented Fiat 500 in style, slipping in beside a handful of Ferarri’s. Besides feeling inadequate about my rental car for a brief second, I was ready to not drive again until we left what looked like the gateway to a palace.
The hotel (or castle, depending on your vantage point) is set in one of the most memorable locations in Italy– tucked right up against the hillside with long views over the city of Florence. There are 45 rooms located in both the main building (the original monastery) and a few small buildings (including a 16th century chapel) scattered on the hill were all lovely, classic Italian luxury.
I guess that Michaelango guy was a pretty decent designer after all. Yes, I’m not joking. The façade is attributed to Michelangelo himself. Most of the original artwork from the monastery is now housed in the various museums of Florence, but a number of pieces can still be seen inside the rooms of the building including the 17th century fresco of the Last Supper by Nicodemo Ferrucci in the halls once used as the Monks’ refectory.
Upon arrival we did what made most sense on a hot Italian day and slipped on our suits and went straight into the incredible pool, set up on the hillside above the hotel.
A beautiful voyeuristic view of the courtyard behind the hotel. Open day and night. We were able to see fireworks here our first night, serendipitously Saint Fiesole was being celebrated. Really, just a good excuse for more prosecco.
Many suites are hidden behind walls over greenery, like these shown above. The privacy coupled with the long views is certainly unmatched in Florence.
Let there be wine. To say we indulged on the local grapes would be an understatement. But when in Florence, I did as I was told.
The exterior of the hotel (Michelangelo’s touch) houses The Loggia Restaurant where we had one of the more decadent lunches of the trip. If you like truffles and ravioli, you’re waistline is in big trouble here.
Our new friends at the hotel took us in and ordered for the table– and we were entertained and blown away by the knowledge of Giulio Gentile (a gentle man, indeed), the marketing director for the Orient Express hotels, which of course include this property. Giulio was even kind enough to drive us nearly half way to our next destination in the hills of Tuscany. Without his wise navigation we probably would still be lost today.
Inside the restaurant. At night the piano was playing and Italian charm turned on high.
The view from the pool over Florence. Gorgeous greenery, flowers, sunbathing. I could have stayed here all day had I not wanted to explore downtown Florence just as badly.
Finally, we were able to visit The Limonaia Suite, which was easily one of the most dramatic and special places on the grounds. It can be reserved as a one, two or three bedroom villa. It’s actually the 17th century Limonaia, or former orangery of the convent. With a private plunge pool, it is truly a private villa inside the Villa San Michele.
If you’re planning a trip to Florence and have the money, stay here. If you’re trying to impress someone you love, see above. If you can’t stay here, swing in for lunch or dinner, or even just a drink. You will not regret seeing it. Chalk it up as a history lesson, it’s not every day you get to visit– let alone stay at a place with history, style and luxury as rich as this.
The hotel is an adventurous 15 minute drive from the Florence airport. Get a GPS, you’ll need it.
Villa San Michele
Via Doccia 4
50014 Fiesole
Italy
My bags are packed and I’m heading out tomorrow night for a few weeks in Shanghai, Beijing and Dalian, followed by Japan where I’ll be in Tokyo and Kyoto. Tips welcome as always, and pictures (and other finds) will be posted!
On my most recent trip to the Dubai I had some extra time for a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of travel life and headed straight south to experience the magic that is the Maldives. I had the distinct pleasure of staying at couple resorts – one of which was the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island where I successfully checked off one of my life long dreams: Dining underwater. Yes, as close to that as I could get without drowning.
To say the restaurant itself is unique would be an understatement of the century, and surely it is the crown jewel of the New Zealand based MJ Murphy Design Group’s portfolio.
Their deep understanding of aquarium design and construction made them a very qualified partner for the job– but as you can see from their own journal, balancing a 175 ton acrylic restaurant 16 feat below the oceans surface was no small task. The story of construction alone is amazing.
The entrance is set above sea (disappointingly you didn’t have to swim in). A door is setup on a small nondescript thatched pavilion above the ocean with an overwater path to the beach. If it weren’t for the buoys lined up around the waters surface in the distance you would hardly know what you were getting yourself into.
After a spiral staircase you’re welcomed into what is best described in picture. It is indeed just like you’re sitting at the bottom of the ocean as schools of fish fly by and inspect the 14 people dining just on the other side of the clear acrylic encasing. It’s a little bit like sitting inside a clear bullet laying in the sand.
Being down there it took a few minutes to get used to how bright it was. I went for lunch at high noon and they actually had a tray of sunglasses to choose from if you forgot your own. The water acts as a magnifying glass and the intensity of the light is almost unbearable without shades on.
Food wise, it was a set lunch menu paired with a refreshing bottle of wine. The AC was pumping down there, but the sun was still very hot. As you can imagine, food wise the seafood was as fresh as it could get, likely caught only earlier that morning. My date and I enjoyed a piece of seared line-caught barrier reef fish, palm heart and fresh coconut. But while the eating was good, it was hard to pay attention to the meal– the view you’re sharing with only a few other lucky souls under the ocean was just too incredible. We spent most of the time pointing and laughing as fish and undersea life passed right before our eyes every minute.
Ironically, eating here turned our to be my early inspiration to go ahead and get my scuba diving certification the next week, as it was a taste of the serenity and beauty the undersea provides.
As we were leaving the restaurant our host reminded us that for a mere $11,000 a night we could spend the night. Too rich for my blood, but wow– what an offer. The space has also been rented out for weddings.
Reservations for Ithaa are required far in advance of your visit to the island, and if you’re even considering a trip to the Maldives, it’s a must see, a great meal and worth the visit.
*Some of these photos were obviously pulled from around the web to illustrate the construction process. Others were taken by me. It was surprisingly hard to photograph under there!
