There’s something about secrets that truly feeds the ego. I had been looking for this place the Americans call “candlebar” but Bulgarians call “humbarra” (meaning “barn”) since we arrived, hearing endless stories about the mysterious knock-requirement, lack of electricity and signless entrance. And consider it a project. You won’t find it on the first try. But when you do, you’ll see how this space, the original publishing house of the first communist newspapers in Bulgaria, with only wicks, fire and wood, can take you back in time. Order some wine from a box, be careful on the railing-free loft, melt into the mellow and learn a little bit more about this battered Balkan country. Absorb the idea that here, Big Brother was, at least at one time, more than just an Orwellian character.

Hint for finding it: Find Graf Ignatiev St, turn at the Ugly Fox, go half a block and look for the Zion sign…